Tbilisi is truly picturesque and unjustly underrated. Georgia (or Sakartvelo in Georgian) deserves more attention as a travel destination, however its history and geography have contributed towards making Tbilisi a hidden gem. Getting to Sakartvelo from the UK is difficult. There is only one direct flight from Heathrow and the rest are connecting flights, usually landing at Tbilisi airport at crazy times at night.

What I liked about Tbilisi was the authenticity. Deep into the Sololaki district it is quite common to see faded facades, crumbling doors and windows or even see through the bricks of certain buildings hidden in the back lanes. Nonetheless, there is a certain resilience you feel once you get to explore the hidden lanes. Architecture aficionados would also appreciate the religious buildings, dotted all over the town. For example, the Sioni Cathedral holds the original cross of Saint Nino the patron saint of Sakartvelo. Moving away from the river you reach Avlabari, a former working-class, international neighbourhood, which is now increasingly popular for hotels and guest-houses.

This is an unpopular opinion, but I believe Avlabari is the most strategic place to stay in Tbilisi. In Avlabari, rather than feeling like just a tourist, you will feel like a long-lost neighbourhood resident. Before you know it, you will become a regular at the kiosk selling baklavas, you’ll get iced coffee at the Spar and go strolling back to your accommodation without needing Google Maps. Similarly to Sololaki, Avlabari is an eclectic architecture mix. In the space of a few streets it is common to find fin-de-siècle 19th century houses standing  next to 1950s urban developments and merchant houses. It can feel chaotic, but is a must-visit for lovers of architecture. From Avlabari you can walk to the riverside, cross the old town and reach Rustaveli Avenue.

Rustaveli Avenue is where you find the big international labels and cute cafes, but a short walk will transport you to a different side: the Dry Bridge Market. An open air market that is a blend between a vintage carboot sale and the Monastiraki flea market in Athens, but with a distinctly post-Soviet vibe. They sell everything you can think of, from the usual souvenirs, socks with the Georgian alphabet, silver plated icons probably dating back decades and even entire collections of Iranian banknotes. There are also good deals for antiques and Soviet memorabilia including medals, Soviet journals and vintage records. It is truly a unique experience to shop there.

If you are feeling adventurous, a perfect day trip is Mtskheta, which is a short 30 minute taxi ride from central Tbilisi. As someone passionate about architecture I could not turn a blind eye to Mtskheta. Mtskheta is the former capital, where Georgian rulers first accepted Christianity in 337AD, and therefore is home to some of the country's most significant buildings. You can feel the weight of history at Svetitskhoveli cathedral. This UNESCO heritage site is not the most lavishly decorated, but is one of those places where you feel insignificant in the plains of existence. Every wall there has a story, and the golden icons and the devotion of the Georgians tell their history in a few actions. A short walk from the cathedral is the Samtavro Nunnery, worth seeing if you are in the area and want to know more about Georgia and its Christian history; I personally preferred this place, less grand but equally as devout as Svetistkhoveli. Samtavro is special because it is the place where Saint Nino preached and lived. Saint Nino is comparable to Saint Patrick for the Irish, the person who contributed towards the spread of Christianity in Sakartvelo and associated with many legends and miracles. 

To conclude, I hope to visit Sakartvelo again. The coastline, Bodbe monastery and the Svaneti region awaits me. In the meantime, if work and university restrain you from getting on the next Tbilisi-bound plane, an excellent book set in Tbilisi and Sakartvelo in general is Hard by a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. I really recommend it if you like books with mystery, family drama, witty humour and you want to know more about the country outside of academic discussions.